I started surfing as I started high school. From the moment I stood up for the first time, I was hooked on the sport. Through using and researching a variety of board styles, I became fascinated with the different solutions that shapers have come up with for different conditions.
When I decided to make my own surfboard, I wanted to create a board that was suited for the conditions at my local New England beaches, that also told a story about why I find surfing to be so thrilling.
Finding a Suitable Form
When you visit any surf shop from Rhode Island up through Maine, you are likely to see racks on racks of pointy, thin, high performance shortboards that surfers have discarded and put up for resale. The reason for this is because every surfer wants to look like a pro and carve around on these tiny surfboards that pros use. However the waves in this region are generally smaller and rougher, which makes shortboards nearly impossible to use.
I designed my surfboard to have the contour of a shortboard, but it is significantly longer and thicker, making it much easier to catch short choppy waves.
The building process was quite a lesson in foam shaping and fiberglass lay-up. I became much more sensitive to form transitions, symmetry, and the importance of clean surfaces.
One of the most fascinating and enjoyable parts of surfing, for me, is the fact that you are braving the elements and are surrounded by danger, but the love of the sport makes you forget about these dangers.
I wanted to capture this by creating some mean looking sea creatures that are behind a breaking wave, where the surfer would be.